Баранья лопатка: пять рецептов от шефов
Лопатка – это название передних ног барана или ягнёнка. Чем хороша лопатка? Тем, что она готовится целиком. Также с неё варится суп, делаются шашлыки, готовится фарш для чебуреков и, можно приготовить люлю с кюфтой.
Мы встретились с пятью шеф-поварами и поинтересовались у них, как им больше всего нравится готовить баранью лопатку.
Шамсиддин Камалов, бренд-шеф «Чайхоны No1 Тимура Ланского»
По его словам: лопатка является нежирным мясом на кости, к тому же, мяса здесь очень мало, а вот кости много. Как правило эта часть баранины идёт на бульоны для разных супов. Для чего следует варить лопатку на маленьком огне 1,5 часа.
Можно в начале, а можно в конце в бульон добавить кумин и зиру. В процеженный бульон добавляем мясо, которое сняли с кости, картофель, овощи и лапшу — вот тебе и шурпа. Она напоминает русскую суп-лапшу, которую готовят на курином бульоне.
Из лопатки можно сделать шашлык, но лучше всего запечь её целиком.
- Для начала лопатка просаливается в тузлуке — на 1 л воды 50 г соли в течение пары-тройки часов.
- Потом она заворачивается в фольгу и запекается при 180 градусах.
- Потом фольга убирается и ещё 20 минут запекается при 200 градусах: мясо колеруется, а жирок становится золотистым.
Булат Ибрагимов, шеф ресторана «Южане»
Чтобы запечь лопатку целиком, нужно взять 350 г чернослива, 300 мл соевого соуса, 1 л мясного или овощного бульона, немного тимьяна и розмарина. Всё это перебить в блендере, залить этим маринадом лопатку и оставить на сутки или на двое. Затем лопатка готовится в этом же соусе. Помещённая лопатка в вакуумный пакет, готовится 12 часов при температуре 80 градусов, а без пакета, просто в духовке — 15 часов при 90 градусах.
Если отделить лопатку от кости и крепко перевязать кусок мяса шпагатом, затем посолить и запечь при температуре 160 градусов около часа — получится прекрасный ростбиф, хоть и не из говядины.
Из лопатки получится идеальный фарш, в котором есть жир. Чтобы сделать люля кебаб и кюфту — фарш необходимо хорошо отбить, вы перестанете тогда этот жир чувствовать, но это придаст фаршу сочность, плотность и однородность.
Для люля нужно взять 1 кг фарша, крепко его взбить, добавить 300 г очень мелко нарезанного лука, чайную ложку зиры, 50 г очень мелко нарезанной кинзы, 5–6 мелко нарезанных средних листиков мяты, мелкомолотый чёрный перец и соль. Можно также добавить 1 г молотого острого перца и половину чайной ложки паприки. Всё хорошо перемешать, отбить ещё раз и поставить в холодильник на 15 минут.
Потом делаем люля и нанизываем их на специальные плоские шампуры. Люля не должны быть толстыми — не более трёх сантиметров в диаметре. Готовятся на открытом огне около семи минут при постоянном переворачивании. При сильном жаре хватит и трёх-четырёх минут.
Из этого фарша делается и кюфта – это маленькие плоские котлетки, которые с двух сторон на сковороде на растительном масле около 15–20 минут. Жарить лучше на слабом огне — градусов 120, чтобы кюфта могла покрываться корочкой не спеша. Достаточно перевернуть два раза.
Оба эти блюда подаются с красным кислым соусом, например ткемали или сацебели, а также можно подать с маринованным луком, петрушкой, кинзой и укропом.
Джузеппе Дави, шеф ресторана Butler
Берём небольшую ногу, весом около двух килограмм, и хорошо обжариваем её на сковороде, на сливочном масле. До того момента как мясо покроется коркой необходимо влить в сковороду 300 мл сухого белого вина и жарить, пока вино не выпарится, а мясо не покроется коркой.
Затем перекладываем лопатку на противень, рядом кладём картошку, морковь, сельдерей, розмарин и тимьян, закрываем фольгой и ставим на 30–40 минут в духовку, разогретую до 140 градусов. Когда мясо станет мягким, снимаем фольгу и снова поливаем 100 мл вина, поднимаем температуру в духовке до 180–220 градусов и готовим ещё около десяти минут. Лопатка должна получиться золотистой, хрустящей и мягкой.
Ещё можно сготовить рагу для тальятелле:
- Мясо нарезается маленькими кубиками или пропускается через мясорубку, затем обжаривается на смеси сливочного и оливкового масла до появления красивой корки вместе с 10 г розмарина, 10 г тимьяна и 10 г майорана.
- Всё это тушится на маленьком огне в течение трёх часов, с добавлением немного пассаты и 200 г отдельно пожаренных грибов, каких-нибудь с нейтральным вкусом, 200 г артишоков (тоже обжаренных) и немного бульона — чтобы слегка покрывало.
- Соль и перец добавляем по вкусу, если нет грибов и артишоков — используйте только пряные травы.
- Когда рагу приготовится, необходимо сварить пасту и соединить её в большой сковородке с рагу, добавить сливочного масла, чуть пармезана и немного пекорино — и перемешать.
Игорь Бедняков, шеф ресторана «Бочка»
Чтобы запечь в духовке двухкилограммовую лопатку, её нужно сначала замариновать. Я делаю это в двух маринадах. Сначала — овощной, пропорции маринада укажу на 1 кг мяса.
- Натираю мясо солью и молотым чёрным перцем и отправляю в холодильник на 30 минут.
- Потом на 12 часов опускаю в маринад из 400 г лука, 15 г зиры, 10 г кумина, 10 г свежих стручков перца чили и 300 г свежих размятых помидоров. Экономить маринад не нужно.
- После этого мясо помещаем в ягодный маринад, для которого нужно 1 кг малины, 200 г брусники и 100 г клюквы, всё превращённое в пюре с добавлением немного соли, сахара и подсолнечного масла. Мясо опускается в маринад на три часа.
Маринованную лопатку можно запекать в рукаве: поместить туда лопатку с морковью, луком, сельдереем или любыми другими долгоиграющими овощами, а также со специями по вкусу.
Можно положить лопатку на пергаментную бумагу, обложить морковью и сельдереем, завернуть, а потом ещё раз завернуть — уже в фольгу. Потом запекаем мясо в течение двух часов при 180–200 градусах.
Из бараньей лопатки получится прекрасная начинка для чебуреков:
- Возьмите 500 г мелко посечённого мяса из лопаточной части, 300 г тёртого лука, 100 г мелко нарубленного курдючного жира, добавить соль и перец, и всё перемешать.
- Затем жарим чебуреки в классическом тесте на воде.
Алексей Зимин, отец-основатель «Еды»
Берём для маринада в равных частях разные травы такие как: зелёный лук, кинзу, укроп, петрушку и тархун. На 500 г всего веса зелени берём 2 килограмма баранины.
Измельчить зелень в блендере вместе с половиной головки чеснока и 100 мл подсолнечного масла, добавляем чёрный перец и 300 мл сухого белого вина. Должен получиться соус.
Берём лопатку и смазываем этим маринадом. Можно дать мясу полежать ночь в холодильнике, а можно сразу отправить на 20 минут в духовку, разогретую до 200 градусов. Затем накрываем лопатку фольгой, делаем меньше температуру до 160 градусов и запекаем около двух часов.
Снимаем фольгу, поднимаем температуру до 200 градусов и оставляем в духовке ещё на 15–20 минут, для получения карамельной корочки.
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